COGLI L’ATTIMO

Cogli l’Attimo translates to “Seize the Day”

…which is a fitting name for this underdog story in Barolo, a story mired by family hardships. Mother and daughter team Grazia and Serena Anselma began producing wines in 2020 and their story is one of 3 generations of sacrifices to get there.
The winery is located on a stunning hillside in Novello, just over the hill from Barolo. The vineyard enjoys a pristine view of the alps and a wonderful breeze that offered some freshness on a hot day in July when we first met this wonderful family. It’s a quaint farm where tastings are done on picnic tables under 4 beautifully sprawling hickory trees where their family home once stood. There’s nothing fancy about the presentation at Cogli l’Attimo and there’s nothing better than that.

It all starts with Nonno ‘Tunen’

Serena’s family, the Giachino’s, have lived and farmed on this hillside since the 1600s. Her grandfather, Antonio, nicknamed ‘Tunen’ was born into a poor farming family with several siblings. The trouble with their hillside was that soils were very poor and without the help of today’s technology you had a hard time producing much of any crop in this difficult area. Not only that but in the 1920s and 1930s the weather was not favorable to those who worked the land. Antonio, who was born in 1924 and had several siblings, would eventually spend a few years living with a family in Dogliani.

This family in Dogliani owned a larger piece of land and was more well off than the Giachino’s. Thus, working for this family guaranteed Antonio a few meals a day and a roof over his head. He made this move when he was 9 years old! Serena grew up hearing stories about Antonio working the land at this age and the challenges he faced on the farm given his young age.

Eventually Antonio would move back home to Novello and grow up to be a bricklayer. He did well enough to support Serena’s mom and siblings. Unfortunately in 1962 a landslide caused them to lose their family home and sent them into complete poverty. The kind of poverty where they couldn’t afford to even put bread on the table. They moved in with a neighbor who didn’t charge them rent but they had to maintain their land. Serena’s mom would truffle hunt while trying to make her way through school. They all did what they could.

He kept the dream alive!

All while maintaining the magical piece of land that would be the future home to Cogli l’Attimo. Selling their little slice of paradise would have lightened their financial burden but given the family’s tie to the land going back generations Serena’s grandfather and mom felt compelled to hold onto it. It’s an incredible gamble that has paid off. It’s also incredible to consider how poor this land and those who farmed it in the 1920s and 30s were and how low on the totem pole farmers here (and really everywhere in Italy) were considered. Fast forward to today and this land is valued in the millions of dollars and those who farm it are revered in every corner of the globe.

Cogli l’Attimo is dedicated to this history and a way to validate this sacrifice. They have 3.5 hectares of vineyards now, comprising 5 rows of 90 year old Dolcetto (the wine that Grazia recalls producing with her father) and Nebbiolo, Barbera and Nascetta that Grazia and Serena planted within the last 10 years. Originally the idea was to sell fruit as they didn’t feel like they had the capacity to make wines on their own but they decided to take a leap of faith.

They are not able to make Barolo on their hillside but they had a half a hectare 2 kilometers away in the Cerviano Merli subzone that was owned by the family of her paternal grandmother. Amazingly this little piece of land was also kept in the family. It all seems like fate that now Serena has embarked on this journey.

She got it from her Momma

Serena fully admits that if it wasn’t for her mother’s determination and belief that you can do anything you set your mind to, Cogli l’Attimo would not exist today. It’s hard not to admire this incredible belief that Grazia has despite her family’s story and growing up the way that she did.

Serena and Grazia were so humble and so down to earth, something I didn’t think existed in Barolo anymore. Their hillside in Novello produces wines of freshness and vibrance, literally a breath of fresh air compared to so many wines in Barolo I’ve tasted recently. These are wines of true grace and elegance that should be celebrated.