Many times we will hear how a wine is a reflection of the winemaker themself, and that could not be more true than in the case of Lorenzo’s wines. Lorenzo will always remind us about this connection when saying “My name is in on the label, so this wine represents everything that I stand for.” The consistency and integrity of his wines is a direct result to his diligence and talent. On Nick’s first trip there, he accompanied Lorenzo on a beetle hunting trip through his vines in the middle of the night. James’ first encounter with Lorenzo was to him manually sharpening his sheath that he would use to hand cut the grass growing in between rows. This intensity and attention to detail can be observed throughout the entire winemaking process.
Lorenzo’s vineyard is wild, but yet not untamed, as like much of the Roero. After driving around the almost barren Barolo, Lorenzo’s vineyard site seems like a much more natural habitat for grapes to be grown. Lorenzo can be stubborn, like when he chooses not to associate himself with the up and coming organic and natural wine movements. His wines are certified sustainable (organic as they come in my opinion), but he does not believe that real wine is made through certificates and fads. Take a look at his homemade fertilizer pile that is kept fresh by thousands of worms, that is as natural as it gets! He has plantings of Nebbiolo, Barbera, Arneis, Dolcetto, and Bonarda. Each individual row of vines is selected based on soil composition, so you may have one row that has heavier clay with Barbera, only to have Nebbiolo and a sandier mix of soil right above it.
Lorenzo is still completing the reconstruction of his family’s old cellar, one step at a time. In his finished, temperature controlled portion of the winery, he has a mix of concrete, stainless steel, French oak, and Slovenian oak. His diligence is evident in the winery, as he is constantly tasting and analyzing his wines over their evolution. He is a very well respected wine maker within the Roero, and he is always open to both give and receive advice from nearby peers. A wine judged to have too much fruit will be switched to smaller oak for more tannic influence, a wine with too much grip he will transfer to cement to let rest. There is always work to be done within the winery, especially since he took on the new challenge of his Classic Method Arneis. The constant tinkering combined with his natural ability leads to some of the most consistent and beautiful wines coming from the Roero.